Gemstone Journal

Tourmaline

A gemstone that refuses to be only one thing

5-min read read

The Discovery

Tourmaline's name is its own definition. Dutch traders in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) took the Sinhalese word toramalli, loosely "mixed gems," and applied it to the multicoloured stones coming out of the island's gem gravels. Unlike most gemstones, tourmaline was named for its variety rather than for one colour or one place: the plurality was the point from the start.

The stone had already caused confusion by then. In the 1500s, Spanish explorers in Brazil found green tourmaline and mistook it for emerald, a misreading that held for centuries. It wasn't until the 1800s that mineralogists confirmed tourmaline as a distinct species altogether: a single mineral group capable of producing an unusually wide spread of colour from one crystal to the next, and sometimes within a single crystal at once. That internal variation, colour zoning along or across a stone, is what produces effects like watermelon tourmaline, a pink core ringed in green. It's a structural fact of how the crystal grows, not an embellishment.

A century later, in the late 1980s, prospectors in Brazil's ParaĆ­ba state found a copper-bearing variety unlike anything on the market: an electric, neon blue-green now considered among the rarest colours in any gemstone. Copper-bearing tourmaline has since turned up in Mozambique and Nigeria too, extending the group's range further still.

How It Was Seen

By the turn of the twentieth century, tourmaline had found an unlikely export market. George F. Kunz, the gemologist behind Tiffany & Co.'s stone buying, championed American deposits in Maine and Southern California, and pink and red tourmaline mined in San Diego County was shipped to Qing dynasty China in significant quantity. There, it was carved into snuff bottles, toggles, and ornamental pieces, reportedly favoured at the imperial court of the Empress Dowager Cixi. That market held until the dynasty fell in 1912, after which demand for American tourmaline in China contracted sharply.

It's a history worth knowing because it says something true about the stone: tourmaline has always travelled well, valued in different eras by people who prized it for entirely different reasons, an imperial court, a Brazilian mine, a Sri Lankan gem trader. What tourmaline meant at court, or on a sixteenth-century expedition, is history. What it means on you is yours to decide.

What It Actually Is

Tourmaline isn't one mineral but a group: a complex borosilicate family that includes elbaite, liddicoatite, dravite, uvite, and schorl, with elbaite accounting for nearly all gem-quality material.

Material
A complex borosilicate mineral group, chiefly the elbaite species in gem-quality stones
Colour
Nearly every hue, including pink, red, green, blue, and bi-colour "watermelon" stones
Hardness
7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, harder than tanzanite, softer than sapphire or diamond
Luster
Vitreous (glass-like)
Transparency
Transparent to translucent in most gem-quality material; opaque in schorl, the black variety